Slovenia-walking blog. Updates and information about us and the website.
This is a lovely video of still images of Slovenia and a great introduction to this wonderful country. The pictures have no captions but its fun guessing the locations.
And here’s another:
There are lots more on YouTube!
More and more of us are using the Internet when on holiday or travelling abroad these days but finding a good signal is not always easy. Roaming charges might also be an issue for UK visitors to Slovenia and other EU countries post Brexit. Let’s hope not.
An app, always an app, comes to the rescue here helping you to find Free WiFi Hotspot Locations in Slovenia. Check it out.
MKL of “My Kafkaesque life” has kindly allowed us to use his Slovene/English translations which will help you understand hotspot information.
On some Slovenian campsites you can also enjoy free internet access. The ones we know of are Camping Bled, Camp Danica in Bohinjska Bistrica, Camp Triglav in Trenta, Kamp Koren near Kobarid and Pivka jama Campsite near Postojna. Please add to the list if you know of any more, there are bound to be others!
To help fund the Slovenia-Walking website we use advertising from Google and Amazon. It would be greatly appreciated if you would purchase your travel books and maps (or any other items for that matter) at Amazon via our Bookshop or other Amazon links on the site.
But best of all – we would love you to buy our Walking in Slovenia guidebook!
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(Slovenia-Walking/David Robertson is a participant in the Amazon Europe S.à.r.l. Associates Programme, an affiliate advertising programme designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.co.uk/Javari.co.uk).
Tsohost – Slovenia-Walking website host
All but one of 10 highest mountains in Slovenia are to be found in the Julian Alps, within the boundary of the Triglav National Park, the sole exception being Grintovec, the highest mountain in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.
Many of these great summits can be reached by the walker who has a head for heights and enjoys some easy scrambling. Some are a little harder and self-belaying equipment is recommended. The ascents of many of Slovenia’s mountains can be made much easier by staying overnight in a nearby mountain hut.
Some photos are missing – we will try to fill these gaps on our next trip!
Triglav is the highest mountain in Slovenia. But it is more than that! It seems that Triglav’s summit is almost a place of pilgimage for the Slovenes – in fact we have heard that only once you have climbed it, can you be considered a true Slovenian! The mountain has pride of place on the nation’s flag which illustrates just how important it is! It was first climbed in 1778 and there is a statue commerating the four climber’s ascent in Ribčev Laz. Click on the link to read about our first ascent of Triglav that we made in September 2009.
Škrlatica lies between the Pišnica and Vrata valleys and is considered to be a difficult climb. The first ascent was made in 1880 by Julius Kugy, accompanied by the guide Andrej Komac and Matija Kravanja. (Pictured below)
Mangrt lies on the Italian border, north-west of Bovec. The 1300m North Wall is popular with climbers. The first ascent was made in 1794 by naturalist Francis Joseph Hannibal Hohenwart.
Visoki Rokav is the neighbouring, but slightly lower, peak of Škrlatica. It appears that there are no waymarked/protected routes to it’s summit. (Pictured below)
Jalovec – a classic looking mountain (the Matterhorn of Slovenia) at the head of the Soča Valley and above Zadnja Trenta, from where it can be climbed (the approach from the Planica valley to the north is perhaps easier). There is a beautiful view of this peak from Sleme, on Walk 10. Karl Wurmb and two guides, Crnuta and Strgulc, were the first to climb it in 1875.
Razor is well seen from Trenta in the Soča Valley and from Kranjska Gora on the north side of the Vršič Pass. This view is from the ruined Italian barracks of Morbegna, just to the SW of Triglav. Referred to as The Royal of Julian Alps by Kugy, Razor was first climbed by Otto Sendtner in 1842. (Also pictured below)
Kanjavec is part of the Triglav group lying just to the SW. There is a protected route from Dolič but it easily climbed from Hribarice to the south (the route that we took on our mountain backpack in the Julian Alps. This view is from the mountain hut, Tržaška Koča na Doliču.
Grintovec is the highest Slovenian peak outside of the Julian Alps. It belongs to the Kamnik-Savinja Alps which lie to the north of Kamnik. The botanist Scopoli made the first recorded ascent in 1759.
Prisojnik, also called Prisank, dominates the skyline when looking south over Kranjska Gora. It is most easily climbed from Vršič along a relatively easy and secured route. The mountain is well known for its two natural windows and the amazing “Girl’s Face”, Ajdovska Deklica. (Also pictured below)
Rž is part of the Triglav group and lies to the east. It is most easily reached from Kredarica but it seems it is not a peak for the walker as there is no easy or even secured route to the top. Perhaps one of the best views is from near Dom Valentina Staniča pod Triglavom.
Here is a list of our 10 favourite waterfalls in Slovenia (in no particular order).
This magnificent waterfall is fed by underground channels that lead from the Triglav Seven Lakes Valley. Slap Savica is the source of the Sava Bohinjka.
Access: A 20 minute walk from the car park by Koča pri Savici, which is 4km west of Lake Bohinj. There is a small fee payable to view the waterfall.
We visit Slap Savica on Walk 20. This walk starts at Ribčev Laz and includes a circuit of Lake Bohinj.
Found at the head of the Voje Valley, it is a wonderful sight especially when in spate.
Access: A pleasant walk of nearly 1 1/2 hours through the alpine Voje Valley from Stara Fužina, in Bohinj.
We visit Slap Voje on Walk 22 which also takes a look at the dramatic Mostnice Gorge. Refreshments are available at Slap Mostnice in season and at the Planinska Koča na Vojah mountain hut on Saturdays.
Very dramatic falls in a dramatic location. It is unusual to be able to walk behind a waterfall, but here you can do so at both falls.
Access: About 4.5km along the Vrata road from Mojstrana. Park beside the Koča pri Peričniku.
We visit Slap Peričnik as an alternative walk to our main walk which explores the head of the Vrata Valley. Refreshments are available from the Koča pri Peričniku mountain hut at the base of the falls.
This is Slovenia’s highest and most powerful waterfall. The waters gush out of the rock face high on Mt Kanin and plunge down into a rocky gorge – a very impressive sight.
Access: Can be easily viewed from the Bovec – Kobarid road in the Soča Valley, near Žaga.
To get a little nearer the waterfall, find the path on the west side of the river. Its also possible to climb up to the source of the waterfall – the path starts on the east side but is a rough scramble in parts – be warned!.
Small but beautiful! This slender, almost delicate, waterfall lies in a rocky cavern along the Kozjak stream which flows into the River Soča.
Access: About an hours easy walk from Kobarid. It is possible to park near start walking from near the entrance Kamp Koren on the east side of the River Soča.
We visit Slap Kozjak on Walk 16, which follows the Kobarid Historical Walk. Refreshments are available at Kamp Koren.
Found deep in the heart of primeval forest (pragozd) on the Lobnica River on the Pohorje Massif. Veliki Šumik cascades down stepped rocks and is the uppermost of two falls. Downstream is Mali Šumik, altogether different in nature, a narrow chute in the rocks.
Access: The easiest point of access that we have found is from the Šport Hotel Areh on the edge of the Pohorje Massif above Maribor. A forestry road leads east for about 7km to cross the River Lobnica.
We visit Veliki Šumik om Walk 35. The riverside path was in poor condition when we last visited. The most awkward sections were protected by cables and metal pegs. The lower falls are a further 20 minutes downstream.
Situated at the head of the beautiful alpine valley of Logarska Dolina on the northern side of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Above is the source of the Savinja River.
Access: There is a car park at the head of the valley and it is a 10 minute walk to the base of the waterfall.
We visit Slap Rinka on Walk 40. Refreshments are available at the car park and from a small cafe beside the falls.
We are not really sure if this counts as a waterfall as Izvir Soče (source of the River Soča) is more of a cascade. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful spot and worthy of inclusion!
Access: Turn off the main Soča Valley road at the base of the Vršič Pass and drive up to the Koča pri Izviru Soče where is a car park. It is a 10 minute walk up to the source and the last section is an easy scramble.
We visit Izvir Soče on Walk 12. Refreshments are available at Koča pri Izviru Soče.
Probably off the beaten track for most visitors but we think this waterfall is a gem! Lying in a wooded and secluded ravine the River Pršjak descends in a series of picturesque and graceful falls.
Access: Park near the roadbridge over the River Pršjak, about 5km south of Dolenja Trebuša.
We visit Slap Pršjak on Walk 26. It is just a 20 minute walk up to the tallest waterfall. Walk on for a few minutes more to reach another fall.
The lower fall is quite spectacular, set in a deep rocky gorge. The higher fall is much higher on the mountain and has cut a deep groove in the rock face.
Access: The lower fall is easily accessed from Godz Martuljek which is about 4km east of Kranjska Gora. In May of 2009 the lower approach to the gorge and the bottom fall were inaccessible due to storm damage. The top fall is about 1.5km further on and 250m higher up the mountain.
We visit the Martuljek waterfalls on Walk 8 on a circular walk through the Sava valley from Kranjska Gora.
So, there we have our 10 favourites. What are yours? Would you add any and which would you demote? We would love to know! Perhaps you can recommend some waterfalls that you think we might like?
Its Slovenia, not Slovakia!
It seems that these two countries get mixed up more than I thought. Here’s an interesting article on a comparison with Slovakia and why Slovenia should rebrand itself. I’ve never had a problem, but then again, I can read a map!
Still confused? I hope not, but if you are this short video will put you right! I love this.
Further to the release of the fifth edition of our Sunflower Guide to Slovenia we thought it about time the website had a face lift. Still based on WordPress this is now the third incarnation.
In the autumn of 2009 David and I completed one of the most exciting and exhilarating walking trips we have ever done, a grand walking tour in the Julian Alps. Since our first visit to Slovenia in 2001 we had always dreamed of climbing Triglav and incorporating this challenge into a circular walk and sleeping in the mountain huts in the Julian Alps. It was a walk that we will remember and cherish all our lives.
Slovenians are proud of their hiking prowess and the mountain huts enable those who love the “Great Outdoors” to stay for days or weeks amidst the high peaks. Huts is a bad translation of koča or dom as these buildings provide clean accommodation, including bedding, warmth and good basic food. There is always a warm welcome and, even with only a few words of Slovenian, it is easy to communicate. The huts are run by various walking clubs and usually there are 2 or 3 people in charge who spend the summer months cheerfully catering to the needs of the hungry, weary walker. Generally there is never more than 5 hours walking between the huts.
With many routes to choose from and a choice of accommodation we found it easy to plan a tour that allowed us to start and finish from the same place and, what was truly magical, we could see where we had come from and where we were heading many times on the journey. As everything you are going to need has to be carried on your back, careful preparation is essential. In addition to the usual necessary walking equipment only a little extra is needed in order to stay in the huts. Just the basics are needed in the washing department as water is very limited, so don’t expect a shower! A torch is recommended for use in the dormitories at night, but you will have one in your pack anyway. Carry a spare set of clothes to wear in the evening and enough cash in your pocket to pay for your bed and meals and you are set to go.
Our holiday started with a pleasant walk from Ribčev Laz, passing by Lake Bohinj, to Stara Fužina, from where we climbed up the well way-marked but steep path to Planina Uskovnica. A quick bite of lunch, sitting in the warm sunshine beside the pretty chapel there, was followed by a long traversing walk, mainly through trees, around the head of the Voje Valley where we met the main path from Rudno Polje to Triglav. We were clear of the trees and we would not walk in them again for the next week. Having made our height for the day it was then an easy traverse around to our first hut, Vodnikov Dom at 1817m.
Unusually, no one in the hut seemed to speak any English, but with our very basic Slovenian we had soon secured a room for the night and had a refreshing cup of tea in our hands. Supper was vegetable soup and bread and more tea, soon followed by an early night and falling to sleep to the sound of cow-bells drifting up from Velo polje just below.
Day One stats – 6 1/2hrs walking, approx 1400m of ascent.
Breakfast was two fried eggs, a slice of bread and a cup of tea (just over 5Eur each) which was to become oue morning ritual. Today’s walk to reach Dom Valentino Staniča pod Triglavom, named after the man who first accurately measured the height of Triglav, was only a three hour hike and a further 500m climb. Setting off we could see Dom Planika high above us but Triglav behind, was shrouded in mist. From Konjsko sedlo we traversed below the cliffs of Ržki podi and around Rž to descend slightly to the hut. What a wonderful position this hut commands, surrounded by high peaks yet accessible from the Kot and Vrata valleys and fine views across to the Karavanke on the Austrian border. After lunch we dumped our rucksacks and explored the nearby peak of Visoka Vrbanova špica (2408m). Later on in the evening, chatting with our host we discovered that we would be unable to stay at Triglavski Dom at Kredarica or Dom Planika on Saturday because they were fully booked. We would have to stay here another two nights.
Day Two stats – 4hrs walking, approx 600m of ascent.
The Vršič Pass, which rises to a height of 1611 metres, is the highest pass in Slovenia. It connects, in the north, the Sava Dolinka Valley in
Gorenjska to the the Soča Valley in Primorska, in the south. The road, impassable in the winter months, is an exhilarating and spectacular drive, climbing and descending 49 hairpin bends, each one numbered and with height recorded, taking you across the spine of the Julian Alps. It is not a difficult route, though not recommended if you are towing a caravan. What makes the drive so special, apart from the views and scenery, is the history behind its very existence.
We begin the traverse on the northern side at Kranjska Gora. The road soon passes the blue waters of Jasna Lake, which on a calm day reflect the majestic mountains that form the lake’s backdrop. Nearby, upon a large boulder is a statue of the mythical golden-horned Zlatorog. Continue on, climbing a little, along the side of the Pišnica Valley to the first numbered hairpin bend that gives a taste of the steep climb that is to come.
A little history. The Austro-Hungarian authorities decided early in 1915 that they needed a road to supply their forces who were preparing to defend their border with Italy (to become known as the Isonzo Front). Building, using Russian prisoners-of-war as forced labour, was begun in March 1915 and, unbelievably, was completed by the end of that year. The pass needed to be kept
open all year so prisoners were stationed in camps to shovel the snow off the road during the winter months. In March 1916 an avalanche buried one of these camps killing around 400 prisoners and 10 of their guards. There is a small Russian cemetery near hairpin 4. To commemorate this disaster and in remembrance of their comrades, other Russian prisoners built a beautiful Russian Orthodox Chapel on the site of the camp and this can be seen by stopping at hairpin 8. To honour the Russian prisoners the road was renamed in July 2006, as the Ruska cesta (“Russian Road”).
After hairpin bend 10 there is some respite from the twists and turns for about one kilometer until just after the mountain hut, Koča na Gozdu. Again the road climbs steeply, the cobbled bends coming in quick succession. Just after hairpin 16 the angle eases and there is an opportunity to stop, get out of the car, and admire the mountain views. Beyond, more steep hairpins follow and you soon pass another mountain hut, Erjavčeva Koča. Two more bends and a steep final section lead to the pass summit where there is plenty of parking space (a small fee is charged which goes towards the high upkeep costs of the road) and it is well worth stopping. This is a great kick off point for high level mountain walks but one of the most popular is the relatively easy walk to Slemenova Špica (Walk 10).
One of the great highlights of the pass is Ajdovska deklica, the rock face of a maiden, on the flanks of Prisank to the east of the road. You may have spotted it from the road on the way up but the best view is found by walking up the track beside the Tičarjev Dom mountain hut (turn left at the first junction).
“Legend has it that the Ajdovska maidens foretold the people of Kranjska Gora their fortune at birth. They also advised the people when to sow their crops and when to harvest them. One of the maidens foretold the son of a hunter that he would kill the Goldenhorn which inhabited the surrounding mountains. This prophecy angered the other maidens who punished Ajdovska deklica by turning her into rock”. Quote from this Kranjska Gora website.
Refreshments, can be purchased from the mountain huts and at the souvenir kiosks.
The descent is perhaps a little easier and the bends are not cobbled. Soon, the
views open out over the Upper Soča Valley and Trenta far below. Look out for the signposted lay-by, Razgledna Tocka (viewpoint), at the end of the first long straight. From here, the site of an old military observation area, there is a fine view of Jalovec (2645) and, to the left, Bavski Grintavec (2347m). There now follows a steep twisting descent with little chance to stop until you reach hairpin 48. Here, beside the road is parking place and, opposite, a short footpath to the Kugy Monument, a wonderful bronze statue of the pioneer climber and author Julius Kugy. This is a beautiful place, so do not miss it. Our walk along the River Soča (Walk 12) visits this scenic spot.
One more hairpin to go and it is just a little further on. At hairpin 49, you can turn right to Izvir Soče, the source of the River Soča. Less than 2km up this road, a path leads from a car-park and the mountain hut, Koča pri Izviru Soče (refreshments available) up to the source. The top is a bit of a scramble but there are wire cables and iron pegs to help you over the tricky bit (Walk 12 visits here also).
From the last hairpin the road continues down in to Trenta and the Soča Valley, but that is another journey!
