The weather forecast now predicted wind and rain arriving within a couple of days so we decided that we should try to put our original plan of three days walking into two long hikes. As it turned out, it was a wise decision. We were sorry to leave the busy and very friendly Triglav Lakes hut but an early start was essential as we estimated a nine hour hike to our destination. The walk to the modern and very accessible Koča pod Bogatinom was easy and we stopped for an early lunch break there, waiting for the locally sourced mushrooms to become a delicious soup. From there, the path, an old wartime track, wound easily up the slopes to a ruined barracks at Bogatinsko sedlo. Now the way ahead was clear, a long ridge with several peaks including Tolminski Kuk (2085m), which looked a difficult scramble. There was nothing for it but to grit our teeth and go for it! As is often the case the ridge was nothing like as bad as we expected and we managed to ascend Tolminski Kuk with more effort than difficulty. And, of course, there is always that uplifting feeling that comes from being away from everything man made, alone with the majesty of nature.
The long descent that followed was hard on the legs but again brightened by finding more clumps of edelweiss and other beautiful wild flowers, tiny and fragile yet magical in their ability to flourish in such harsh surroundings. Eventually we spied our bed for the night, Koča na Planina Razor, set amidst deciduous woods and fields of cows, for we had dropped to 1300 metres. No ricet tonight, just spaghetti and cheese but the dessert was a local speciality, a special form of Štruklji and absolutely delicious!
Day Ten stats – 8hrs walking, 1100m ascent
Only one more full day of hiking remained and luckily the dry weather held. The next morning the first challenge was to climb 600m to regain the ridge. Once more we were lucky to have an old army path to follow and this wound gently up to reach the ridge at Globoko, not far from the summit of Vogel (1922m). We were now back on familiar territory as we skirted Vogel and followed the route of one of our walks in our guidebook to Šija above the Vogel ski area. Our next objective was the summit of Rodica, at 1966 meters the highest peak along the ridge. From here we could virtually see the whole route of our holiday – magic. What a distance we had travelled or, maybe, it was the hazy conditions that made everything appear further away! The only problem was that our objective, Črna Prst, at the far end of the ridge, seemed a long, long way!
Following our Walk 19 in reverse along the winding ridge above Bohinj was a delight and after a short, steep climb, we eventually arrived at Dom Zorka Jelinčiča, which nestles below the summit of Črna prst (1835m). This small hut was, again, warm and welcoming and we realised once more what a wonderful facility these huts provide, offering food and shelter and thus enabling hikers of all ages to enjoy the pleasure and excitement of mountain walking.
Day Eleven stats – 7 1/2hrs walking, approx 1100m of ascent
Our final day was a rather soggy walk down in thick mist and drizzle, mainly through trees and via Planina za Liscem, to Bohinska Bistrica, thus completing our almost circular tour. The wet day certainly didn’t dampen our spirits – how could it after such a wonderful trip! Anyway, we had a hot bath to look forward to, a meal out and a much anticipated cream cake, the Bled Kremsnita to look forward to!
Day Twelve stats – 2 1/2hrs walking, no climbing! One shower, one bath, one large pizza and a Bled Kremsnita, each.